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The Kyrgyz range of the Tian Shan (or Celestial)
Mountains has several valleys that cut into or through it. The most
famous are Kaindi, Too Ashu, Sokuluk (with the village of Tash Bulak),
Ala Archa, Alamedin, Issyk Ata, Kegeti, and Shamsy. Each with their own
characters and attractions.
KAINDI
The
town of Kaindy sits across the main road from Bishkek to Tashkent, and
was important for a Sugar factory. High in the mountains above the town
was an early gold mine. The road climbs gently into the mountains and
though the valley housed a pioneer camp, the valley is rarely visited
by foreigners.
TUU ASHU
The Tuu Ashu Canyon is best
known because the pass (actually Ashu means "pass" in Kyrgyz) at the
top is the highest point on the Bishkek-Osh road at 3586m - and the
gorge from the town of Kara Balta is well worth the journey in itself
with steep walls and spectacular views. At the top, the old road can be
seen climbing over the very summit of the pass, but there is now a
tunnel burrowing through the mountain, (apparently built by the same
construction team responsible for the Leningrad and Moscow metros) .
Emerging out of the tunnel on the other side of the pass is a splendid
vista of the Suusamir plain.
AK SUU
Travelling
from Bishkek - this narrow canyon is best approached by turning towards
the mountains after Belovodsk and passing through the village of Kyzyl
Dyikan. Here can be seen one of the first orthodox churches to be built
in Central Asia. The road follows the stream bed deep into the
mountains - and it is said that this is very good fishing country.
TASH BULAK
Tash Bulak ("Stone Spring")
is a village sitting astride the Sokuluk river which flows through
alpine meadows and woodland with many varieties of wildlife. The
village is still known to many locals by it's Soviet name Belagorka,
and it was the site of a very successful collective farm. Nowadays the
village is not as prosperous but is still quite attractive with
decorated houses. It can serve as the starting point for several walks.
Nearby is the Pigeon's waterfall - not to be confused by its more
famous namesake in the Alamedin valley - which plummets over the steep
cliffs. There is a trail over the mountains to the Kochkor-Suusamyr
road, which used to be used to drive sheep over the mountains, but it
hasn't been used in recent years and is generally impassable now. There
is a route between the Sokuluk gorge and Ala Archa over the Czerny pass
(3900m).
CHUNKURCHAK
Only twenty five kilometers
from Bishkek, this tiny gorge lies to the east of the village of Tash
Dobo. It is the home of the Chunkurchak State Biological Reserve -
created to protect the sites where rare varities of tulips grow - such
as the Craig Tulip ("King Tulip"), which can grow heads as wide as
15-18 cms, and the Zinaida Tulip which sports bright red flowers with
green veins on the outside and yellow-gold intside. The flowers usually
bloom in April and May. The gorge itself is very narrow at the mouth
and not easy to find. Once inside it opens out to form a wider Tahr
valley, which boasts 200m cliffs towering over a rushing stream. It is
famous for the Pigeon's waterfall.
ALAMEDIN
The Alamedin valley is one
of the most striking features of the Kyrgyz Krebet, just South of
Bishkek. The village of Koi Tash, 30 km from Bishkek, is the confluence
of four roads: one from the capital; another which climbs to the West
over the ridge, past Golubinyi Waterfall (Pigeon's or Dove Waterfall)
to Kashka Suu in the Ala Archa valley; a third to the East towards
Issyk Ata, and the fourth leading upto the main Alamedin valley. The
canyon narrows and the stream, one of the main rivers flowing through
Bishkek, cascades down to the Chui plain. Ten kilometers further on is
the Tyoplie Klyuchi Sanatoria. At a height of 1800 meters a.s.l. there
is a bathhouse with naturally, radon, heated water - (Take the advice
of the doctors and restrict swimming in the pool to no more than about
10 minutes.) - and a complex of cottages further up the road, which was
opened in 1984 by the then Ministry of Power. Beyond the complex the
vista opens out into a beautiful alpine valley - ideal for a day trip
out from the city - and there is a trekking route over the mountains.
There are waterfalls, glades with berries, mushrooms, juniper and birch
forests and views of glaciers and the Usechenko peak (4650m), as well
as a number of other canyons to the East.
ISSYK-ATA
Seventy seven kilometers from Bishkek, nestled at
a height of 1775 meters a.s.l. in the Issyk Ata valley which cuts into
the Kyrgyz Range which runs south of the city. The slopes of the
mountains have numerous alpine meadows and in the vicinity of the
resort are fruit and decorative trees. The waters have attracted
visitors for many centuries and this used to be a place of pilgrimage
and in the nineteenth century villagers expressed their gratitude for
the healing properties of the water by smearing onto a large rock,
which has an inscription on the Buddha on it, which dates from the
tenth century. The Tibetan inscription is on the face of a boulder with
an eagle sculpture on top. Unfortunately, contemporary, modern,
graffiti now joins it. There is a legend about a young woman who bathed
here everyday in the river. The magic force of the mountains kept her
young and preserved her youthful beauty, even when all the other women
of her age were old and wrinkled … so that she she still
appeared young and beautiful. Nearby, it is said, was the home of an
Uzbek shamaness, famous for her healing powers, who led a hermit's life
here until the 1950's, after her husband and son were both killed as
Basmachi rebels. Turkic nomads worshipped the springs and early Russian
colonists used to take the cure here - when the only accommodation was
local yurts. The river is famous for trout - and often attracts
poachers. Another problem faced in this beautiful valley is the illegal
chopping down of trees.
TUYUK AND KOK-MOINOK
Between the Issyk Ata and
Kegeti gorges are tucked away two small gorges - Tuyuk and Kok Moinok,
connected by the Kok Moinokpass (2911m). Nestled under the "Sugar Head"
peak lies the Kok Moinok lake.
KEGETI
Ninety
kilometers East of Bishkek lies the Kegeti valley with steep forested
slopes. The map shows a road passing over the mountains towards Kochkor
- but it is not really passable - the road is blocked by landslides and
even in the height of summer it is almost impossible on horseback. A
two or day three trek takes you up the Kel-Tor gorge, a side valley, to
the Kel-Tor lake (Dead Lake) with it's turquoise water and numerous
beautiful waterfalls. From the valley you can visit the Bel Saz jailoo,
the Sharkyratma waterfall, Kushkonok forest, Kisl Beles forest, Chaunde
Gorom viewpoint and Kara Unkur (Crying cave). It is also possible to
make a trip into the neighbouring Tuyuk valley and Karagai Bulak. The
village of Kegeti lies at the mouth of the gorge although the road into
the valley leaves the main road at Ivanovka and travels through Ak-Sai,
Rotfront and Leskhos.
SHAMSY
The
Shamsy gorge is considered by some people to be the most beautiful of
the canyons in the Kyrgyz Hrebet. It was selected as the site for a
"Hunting Lodge" for the former Shah of Iran - which was built but never
occupied. Apparently the word "shamsy" means "dark" in Fahsi (Iranian -
Persian) but as the valley has been called this for many years, this is
probably just a coincidence. The golden mask of the ancient beauty,
Queen Shamsy, was found nearby. Twelve kilometers into the valley is
the junction of the Shamsy and Tuyuk rivers. (Not to be confused with
the Tuyuk river of Kok Moinok). The wooded slopes and high mountain
plateaus are home to a wide range of fauna and flora. In summer it is
possible to cross the mountains and head towards Kochkor.
KYZYL SUU
The village of Kyzyl Suu is nestled under the
Kyrgyz Hrebet, some 35 km east of Tokmok. The Kurandy jailoo is
surrounded by slopes covered in conifer forests and alpine meadows.
Konorchak Canyons A bit further afield are the Konorchak Canyons - 125
km from Bishkek these canyons stretch for nearly 200 km. To see
Konorchak Canyons completely would take a long time - but it is
possible to spend a few days exploring the spectacular scenery. The
canyons have romantic names like "Grand Canyon", "Bobsleigh" and
"Skyskraper". They were formed about one and a half to two million
years ago and since that time erosion by wind and water has turned a
plain plateau into gigantic stone pillars, some of which are 400-500
meters high. The canyons see almost no precipitation at any season of
the year - between 1980 and 1990 the canyons received no snowfall at
all, and in the last decade of the twentieth century snow has fallen
twice. If the air temperature in Bishkek is 20 degrees below zero, in
the Konorchak Canyons it is +5 degrees - however, in recent times the
climate in the Canyons is becoming a little colder. One peculiarity of
the Konorchak Canyons is that plants growing there tend to be very
large - much larger than usual. One of the main attractions at
Konorchak is an extinct volcano, Segizkhan Shokhy, dating back to 2.5-3
million years ago with slopes covered with fossilized seashells the
size of the child's fist and the remnants of lava. It is claimed to be
their favourite valley in the Kyrgyz range by many of the locals.
BOOM GORGE
At the eastern end of the Kyrgyz Range -
converging together through this narrow canyon are a highway, a
railway, and the Chu River. Most people simply drive through and don't
stop - passing over "Red Bridge", which crosses the Chu river at the
mid-point of the Gorge and onto Issyk Kul. To the west from here you
can see the Konorchak canyons. The road is lined with statues of Snow
Leopards Eagles and Stags and an occasional "pioneer". The Bishkek
Balykchi railway also travels through the gorge - rising high above the
road. There are walls designed to prevent landslides cascading down
onto the road below - but despite these, occasionally landslips do
manage to close the road for a time. The gorge offers plenty of
opportunities for rafting, camping and trekking. It also offers
possibilities for White Water Rafting.
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